April 8, 2024 - Vicksburg National Military Park

During the U.S. Civil War, Vicksburg was the key to control of the Mississippi.  By December, 1862, Union forces controlled all cities on the Mississippi except for the fortress city of Vicksburg.  For the next seven months, U.S. Grant conducted a masterful combined arms campaign of maneuver -- using by land and naval forces -- culminating in a seige of Vicksburg, eventually forcing the surrender of Lieutenant General John C. Pemberton's forces stationed there on July 4, 1863.  The loss of Vicksburg and the loss at Gettysburg the previous day, July 3, pretty much ended all hopes of a Confederate victory in the Civil War.  Texas and Arkansas were effectively cut off from the Confederacy, and the Mississippi River was once again open for northern commerce to reach the Gulf of Mexico, and as a supply line for the Union Army.

I drove from Jackson over to Vicksburg, about an hour's drive, to check out the battlefield, which basically was a perimeter around the town.  I started at the Vicksburg National Military Park Visitor Center, which is east of the town on the banks of the Mississippi River.

This map shows the Vicksburg area as it was back in 1863.

   
The Campaign.
 
Grant initially planned a two-pronged approach in which half of his army, under Maj. Gen. William Tecumseh Sherman, would advance to the Yazoo River and attempt to reach Vicksburg from the northeast, while Grant took the remainder of the army down the Mississippi Central Railroad. Both of these initiatives failed. Grant conducted a number of "experiments" or expeditions—Grant's bayou operations—that attempted to enable waterborne access to the Mississippi south of Vicksburg's artillery batteries. All five of these initiatives failed as well. Finally, Union gunboats and troop transport boats ran the batteries at Vicksburg and met up with Grant's men who had marched overland in Louisiana. On April 29 and April 30, 1863, Grant's army crossed the Mississippi and landed at Bruinsburg, Mississippi. An elaborate series of demonstrations and diversions fooled the Confederates and the landings occurred without opposition. Over the next 17 days, Grant maneuvered his army inland and won five battles, captured the state capital of Jackson, Mississippi, and arrived on the outskirts of Vicksburg around May 18.
   
The Siege.
 
On May 18, the Union army converged on Vicksburg, trapping Pemberton's force. Grant attempted two assaults to break through the strong Confederate fieldworks: May 19 and May 22. The latter assault initially achieved some success in McClernand's sector, but it was repulsed with 3,200 casualties. Johnston ordered Pemberton to evacuate the city and save his army, but Pemberton thought it impossible to withdraw safely. Johnston planned to attack Grant [from Jackswon] and relieve Pemberton but was unable to arrange it in time. Grant besieged the Confederate army. On July 4, after six weeks in which the soldiers and civilians of Vicksburg had no food supplies and were bombarded constantly, Pemberton surrendered the city and his army.
   
The Vicksburg National Military Park Visitors Center.
   

There were a lot of people milling about, including the local news, to see the big solar eclipse.  The Visitor Center was giving away special sunglasses so that you could look at it without burning your eyes out.  But as you can see, the sky is very overcasty and no one saw anything.

The solar eclipse of April 8, 2024, also known as the Great North American Eclipse, was a total solar eclipse visible across a band covering parts of North America, from Mexico to Canada and crossing the contiguous United States. A solar eclipse occurs when the Moon passes between Earth and the Sun, thereby obscuring the Sun.

   
Inside the Visitor Center are portraits of the two opposing generals:  Lieutenant General John C. Pemberton and Major General Ulysses S. Grant.   I watched a 20 minute film which was very well done.
   
In this diorma, Confederate soldiers man the bulwarks.
   
An example of a bulwark outside the Visitor Center.
   
From another angle.
   
There is a 16-mile driving tour which starts at the Visitor Center and loops counter-clockwise around the battlefield.  First you drive through Memorial Arch.
 
Perhaps one of the grandest entrances into a National Park, the 1920 Memorial Arch welcomes visitors almost as a portal to the past. Built with funds leftover from the park’s 1917 Peace Jubilee – a reunion of both Union and Confederate veterans – granite monument is a symbol of reconciliation and reunification of the country and its people in the decades following the Civil War. Expressed within its design are architectural elements synonymous with the American Renaissance.  Exemplifying simplicity are the two Doric order columns. The simplest of the three orders, Doric columns are the only style column you will see within the park. Carved in the granite are structural details such as triglyphs and guttae. These carvings offer no actual structural support but are meant to be indicative of actual architectural elements, rather than just for design purposes.
   
Typical of most Civil War battlefields, the driving tour is lined with monuments to both sides.
   
The first stop was the Battery De Golyer. This is where Captain Samuel DeGolyer’s 8th Michigan Battery occupied the line during the 47-day siege.  From this position, a battery of Union guns hammered the Confederate Great Redoubt directly ahead.  At one time as many as 22 Federal artillery pieces were positioned here.  DeGolyer was mortally wounded along this line on May 28, 1863, shot by a Confederate sharpshooter.
   

Looking northwest, in the distance, across No Man's Land is the Surrender Interview Site, where that house now stands.

By the end of June, General Pemberton realized his situation was desperate. The hope of relief by General Johnston's army had quickly disappeared. Over 10,000 soldiers in Pemberton's Army of Vicksburg were incapacitated due to illness, wounds, and malnutrition. His supplies and munitions were at critically low levels. He learned that Grant was preparing for another massive assault on the Confederate works in early July.

After a meeting with his division commanders, Pemberton concluded that surrender was inevitable. On the morning of July 3, 1863, he gave orders to display a white flag of truce, and sent representatives to deliver a message to General Grant proposing a meeting to discuss surrender terms. Grant agreed and at 3:00 p.m., Generals Grant and Pemberton met under the shade of an oak tree midway between the opposing lines.

The commanders could not reach an agreement, but discussions among subordinate officers, and an exchange of notes between Grant and Pemberton late in the day, brought about agreement for final terms of surrender.  The next morning, July 4, the Confederate defenders marched out of their trenches, stacked their arms, and were paroled. After 47 days, the siege of Vicksburg was over.

   
Looking north, across No Man's Land, is the Illinois Monument.
   
The "Spirit of Michigan" Memorial.  Seven infantry regiments and 2 artillery batteries from Michigan participated in the campaign and siege of Vicksburg.
   
 
   
Statue of Major General John A. Logan, commanding the 3rd Division, under Major General James B. McPherson's 17th Army Corps, Army of the Tennessee.
   
The Shirley House, the only surviving wartime structure in the park.  During the siege, it served as headquarters for the Forth-Fifth Illinois Infantry.  It has been restored to its 1863 appearance.
   

The Illinois Memorial.

Stone Mountain (GA) granite forms the base and stairway. Above the base is Georgia white marble. There are forty-seven steps in the long stairway, one for each day of the Siege of Vicksburg. Modeled after the Roman Pantheon, the monument has sixty unique bronze tablets lining its interior walls, naming all 36,325 Illinois soldiers who participated in the Vicksburg Campaign. Atop the memorial sits a bronze bald eagle sculpted by Frederick C. Hibbard of Chicago, who would also sculpt the statue of General Ulysses S. Grant in the park.

The monument stands sixty-two feet in height and originally cost $194,423, paid by the state of Illinois.  It was dedicated on October 26, 1906.

   
Inside the Illinois Memorial.
   
A good look at No Man's Land.
 
 
   
Looking down from the Illinois Memorial to the Battery De Golyer at left and the Surrender Interview Site at right.
   
The Jackson Road runs up the hill to the Third Louisiana Redan.
   
Now on the Confederate side, at the Third Louisiana Redan.  This was one of the major Confederate fortifications guarding the Jackson Road approach to Vicksburg.
   
I was amazed at how they know exactly who was where during the battle.
   
In an attempt to break through the strong Confederate defences, the Union forces tried mining under a Confederate strongpoint and blowing it up with explosives.  Both Union attempts were failures and did not break the Confederate line.
   
Ewings Approach
   
 
   
The Stockade Redan.
   
General Sherman attacked the Stockade Sedan twice and was repulsed both times with heavy losses.  It's easy to see why; this terrain is built for defense.
   

The driving tour turned due west to the bluffs overlooking the river.

In 1863, you would have been overlooking the Mississippi River from here.  Now the water you see is the Yazoo River Diversion Canal.

   

 

   
 
   
Near Fort Hill, looking south.
   

The Tennessee Memorial.

In 1992 Mrs. Evelyn P'Pool, chairman of the Monument Committee for the Tennessee Division of the United Daughters of the Confederacy expressed an interest to initiate a project to honor the Confederate soldiers from Tennessee who served in the defense of Vicksburg.  The memorial was erected in June 1996 and dedicated June 29, 1996.

Its design consists of a slab of unpolished granite shaped in the outline of the State of Tennessee, measuring 13 feet, 10 inches by 3 feet, 2 inches by 9 inches. It rests on a granite base measuring 4 feet by 3 feet, 10 inches. The front is inscribed, with the following text: "TENNESSEE, Dedicated To the Tennessee Confederate Soldiers Who Served In the Defense of Vicksburg."

The back of the memorial reads, "Honor to those who never sought it; Fame to those who never wished it; Glory to those who never dreamed it; Immortality, for they earned it - The Confederate Soldiers of Tennessee."

   
 
   

The Missouri Memorial.

The familiar phrase “brother vs. brother” as is so often spoken in discussion of the Civil War rings true here at the Missouri Monument. This red granite, Roman Composite design stands atop Green’s Redan, a site where soldiers from Missouri serving in both armies truly personified this fratricidal Civil War. This moment in history is forever immortalized within the two bronze relief plaques seen on the monument’s façade. Sculpted by artist Victor S. Holm, the scene at left titled “The Attack,” depicts Union soldiers in a ferocious charge, and at right is the aptly named, “The Defense,” which depicts Confederate soldiers defending against the attack.

Seen at center, perched atop the bow of a ship, representative of the ship of state as it successfully plies its way through the troubled waters of the Civil War, is “The Spirit of the Republic.” This figure is based on Nike, the Hellenistic Greek goddess of victory who was closely associated with the Grecian goddess Athena. This version of Nike was heavily inspired by the famous 190 B.C. work “Nike of Samothrace” now on display at the Louvre in Paris. The monument features many other artistic motifs synonymous with the American Renaissance. As you get out a take a closer look, see if you can spot the ram’s head and dolphins.

The Missouri Monument was dedicated during the 1917 Peace Jubilee which was held here at Vicksburg National Military Park, making it a true artistic representation of reconciliation. At its dedication, Colonel Leo Raisseur noted the monument’s purpose, “to commemorate and perpetuate the heroic services, the unselfish devotion to duty, and the exalted patriotism of the Missouri Soldiers, Union and Confederate, who were engaged in the campaign, siege, and defense of Vicksburg.”

   
The Confederate line near the Stockade Redan.  The Union failures on May 19 and 22 to overrun this fortification, the principal Confederate work guarding the Graveyard Road approach to Vicksburg, were major factors in Grant's decision to avoid any more direct assaults.
   
 
   
 
   
This building near the Surrender Interview Site used to be the Visitor Center.
   
Looking up at the Great Redoubt.
 
The Great Redoubt (a four-sided, rectangular fortification), along with the Third Louisiana Redan, was constructed to protect the Jackson Road entrance to Vicksburg. It was the largest and most formidable defensive work in the Confederate line. The redoubt was fiercely attacked by Union soldiers on May 22 and Federal color-bearers planted flags on the redoubt's walls. But after savage fighting, the blue-clad infantry was repulsed with heavy losses. During the ensuing siege operations, Union artillery bombarded the Great Redoubt until the surrender of Vicksburg on July 4, 1863.
   

The Mississippi Memorial.

The memorial was erected at a cost of $32,000 and dedicated on November 13, 1909.  The bronze work represents various actions of the Mississippi troops during the Siege of Vicksburg and was fabricated in Rome.  At the monument's front is a statue of Clio, Muse of History. The memorial is constructed of Mount Airy, North Carolina granite and is 76 feet high.

 

   
 
   
Typical terrain throughout the battlefield.  It's no wonder Union forces were never able to break the Confederate line.
   
I enter the South Loop portion of the park and encounter the Texas Memorial.
 
The memorial was constructed of Texas red granite and erected at a cost of $100,000. The memorial was dedicated on November 4, 1961, and completed during the winter of 1962-63.

The eleven steps leading to the main portion of the memorial honor Texas' sister states in the Confederacy. A live Yucca plant, native to Texas and the southwestern United States, is a unique addition to the monument. The bronze statuary symbolizes all who served from Texas at Vicksburg and captures the spirit of the men who sealed the breach in the Confederate lines. The sculptor was Herring Coe, Lundgren and Maurer were the architects, and the Texas Granite Corporation was the contractor. The memorial lists all Texas units on the defensive line, in Johnston's Army, and in Walker's Texas Division.
   
Near the Railroad Redoubt.  Confederates built this work to protect the Southern Railroad of Mississippi.  Savage hand-to-hand fighting took place here on May 22.
   
 
   
The Iowa Memorial.
 
The Texas and Iowa Memorials face off against each other.
 
This memorial was dedicated on November 15, 1906, and completed in 1912 at a cost of $100,000, honors the 38 infantry units, three artillary units, and three cavalry units from Iowa that served in the Vicksburg Campaign. Mounted in the middle of the Memorial is bronze statue of a solider mounted on a stallion and carrying a flag. Surrounding this statue, is Vermont White Granite and six bronze relief panels which depict successive engagements in the Vicksburg Campaign.
   
Leaving the Vicksburg National Military Park, I drove down to a place called South Fort which then, and now, overlooks the Mississippi River and the Interstate 20 bridge and an older bridge no longer used.
   
Looking north.  Down on the river is the Ameristar Casino Vicksburg.
   
A closer looks at the bridges.
   
Vicksburg was the Gibraltar of the Confederacy.
   
 
   
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